Day 9(3) : Sheil Bridge to Coireshub

Sunday 13th May 21km 1530m ascent 1 Corbett

Doing the Gringo Gallop with a Knackered Knee yesterday made me rethink today’s route, so rather than heading straight for the hills I walked up the road past Achnagart to the path to Bealach Duibh Leac avoiding some of the peaks I had intended to climb.

There is a good path up to Allt Coire Toiteill that I lost as it turned towards the bealach and left me struggling up the very steep hillside. With some relief I reached the bealach and the fine ridge, disappearing in the cloud, to Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais. There is a wall along the ridge as far as Buidhe Bheinn that made navigation easy when the cloud stopped visibility.

My pack seemed to be exceptionally heavy today, I had 5 days food at this time, and at one point I stopped and swore to myself that I would be more comfortable carrying a bag of spuds! The problem was solved very simply by adjusting the harness, this is the only 'problem' I have with the Osprey pack, the strap buckles slip under load and I don't notice it going out of adjustment until it is very bad. I had walked about 1/2 mile when I noticed my camera was missing, panic! retrace my steps, sure you went this way? nearly given up then there it is, must have been when I adjusted the pack, must be more careful, lost one last year the same way.

The sun appeared on Buidhe Bheinn and with no wind I sat down and admired the view in complete comfort; I even spread the tent out to dry! On my way down I met a couple out for the day who told me there was a good tea shop at Kinloch Hourn so I changed my route to find the path down to the Lough.

Loch Hourn in the sunshine is incredibly beautiful with a backdrop of the Small Isles and the steep hills all around but I remember sailing past, many years ago, with a squall blasting out from under low cloud and it looked more like the jaws of hell, a variable place!

The well-made stalkers path is unsullied by vehicle tracks until it reaches the electricity pylons and descends steeply through trees to the houses and road. The Tea Shop is excellent and not to be missed I was very glad to be told about it. The midges were causing concern this year as a lot of the trade is in the early part of the year to avoid these pests and if there is no midge free season?

Suitably refreshed with tea, scones and cake I walked up the road to Coiresub where I pitched by the burn in rain showers and midges.